No matter how times change and fashions evolve, it is still the qipao (旗袍) that best shows off the grace, elegance, and nobility of the Chinese lady. The qipao is an expression of Chinese culture and history, and is a classic element in the West's image of the Orient.
Origin and Development
Today the word"qipao"refers to a woman's dress, but the original qipao was the garment worn by Manchu (滿族) also known as bannermen (旗人); Manchu were China's Qing Dynasty rulers. Note that the character qi (旗) appears both in"qipao"and"bannermen;" pao (袍) means both "robe" and "dress." The original qipao design was very different from today's. The lines were straight, the garment was loose, and there were splits on both sides to allow easy mounting of horses. Cuffs and necklines were decorated with numerous embroidered flower buttons. Trousers were worn underneath, which had a neutral line that made them suitable for both sexes.
Later, influenced by Western clothing, the men's robes were trimmed and streamlined, eliminating much of the traditional cumbersome adornment. The waist and cuffs were loosened and the collar was made low in front and high behind. The final version of the robe had been created. On the women's side, the waistline of the qipao was narrowed, the hem was tightened, and the collar shape shortened; this new style became popular in the early Republican era. In the 1930s a still more refined style became fashionable among China's upper classes and in the entertainment world. Wearing one became de rigueur among wealthy married women and film stars, and an important form of attire for urban women. Beauty-conscious women of the era wore qipao in an almost endless array of patterns and style variations; in the quest for unique chic, some opted for turn-down collars, had lotus flowers added, had scalloped trim added to the hem, wore fur coats over their qipao, wore accessories such as pearl necklaces, and so on.
Qipao Revolution – The Shanghai and Beijing Schools
In the 1920s and 1930s, Shanghai was deeply influenced by Western culture and fashions, and was even dubbed the"Paris of the East."Western elements were incorporated into qipao design; the master craftsmen of Shanghai's qipao shops mimicked Western designs and cuts, emphasizing the beauty of women's curves and raising the hem line above the knee to create the main Shanghai School look. The most distinguishing characteristic of the Shanghai School qipao was a unique fusion of traditional Chinese and modern Western elements. Shoulder padding and waistline were even added in the quest for the perfect figure. The range of fabrics used expanded markedly, from all kinds of silks and satins to cotton and gauze. All needs and desires could be accommodated. Chinese flower-shaped fabric buttons of many designs also became available. The qipao became even more of a fashion statement, and became all the rage in the city.
In contrast to the Westernization and innovation of the Shanghai School, the Beijing School represented the traditional cultural inheritance. Beijing had been the main place of settlement in China for Manchu (bannermen), and in the 1920s the preeminent families in local high society were those already prominent during the old Qing Dynasty era along with new-era warlord politicians. The traditional straight and loose design was kept as the qipao model, as were the traditional silk, satin, and cotton fabrics. However, two unique styling elements - complex embroidery and weaves were introduced. The products of both schools enjoyed success, but it was the Shanghai School's modern look that would come to dominate the further development of the qipao.
The Popularity and Evolution of the Qipao in Taiwan
The Republic of China once designated the qipao as the official national dress. The wives of the heads of state wore qipao on diplomatic occasions. Soong Meiling(宋美齡), the wife of former President Chiang Kai-shek(蔣中正), was at all times concerned with her appearance and almost always wore a qipao when in public. She would inevitably be attired in a qipao appropriate to the occasion when meeting VIPs, leaving a deep impression with foreign dignitaries. "The heyday of the qipao in Taiwan was approximately the 1950s and 1960s,"says Xu Rongyi (許榮一)."Many military personnel and family dependents came to Taiwan with the Nationalist government at the end of the Chinese Civil War, bringing the qipao tradition with them and launching a wave of local popularity."Xu, a master tailor, has been crafting qipao in Taipei for more than 50 years. Talking about this local period of flourishing fortunes for the qipao, he says that"there were over 20 fabric stores (in Taipei) from Hengyang Road (衡陽路) to Bo'ai Road (博愛路), and each had one or more qipao masters. At the height of the period the largest qipao stores needed as many as 30 staff to cope with the level of demand for custom-tailored qipao from high-level officials' wives and young society ladies."In those days such ladies would have a new qipao made for housewarmings, birthdays, weddings, Chinese New Year, and all other happy occasions.
The Taiwan qipao was strongly influenced by the Shanghai School, with almost every master craftsmen, it seems, emphasizing the Shanghai model under the influence of their teachers. In the 1960s sleeveless and short, knee-length qipao became fashionable, and most had sequins and embroidered flowers. Bridal qipao featured embroidery with sewing beads. Though qipao appear simple in style, there were in fact a number of complex processes of craftsmanship involved. There were more than 10 collar designs, over 100 flower button designs, and special trim, piping, double piping, and"facing flowers"techniques (the last a symmetrical stitching technique in which flower patterns face each other).
Another individual who helped many a high-level Taiwan official's wife get the qipao she demanded was Lin Jinde (林錦德), a living national treasure, who says that"the process for creating a qipao, from figure measurements to drawing to cutting to sewing, including the creation of flower buttons matching the fabric colors and patterns, plus the complicated piping and other ornamentation, takes five to seven days."The cost of maintaining a qipao depends on the fabric used (beaded cloth cannot be ironed, requiring extra labor), the amount of piping, the type of flower button, etc,, all of which entail different fees. Renowned Taipei custom tailor shops such as Rong-Yi Tang Zhuang Qipao (榮一唐裝旗袍), Shanghai China Beauty Han and Tang Cheongsam Studio (上海華美漢唐旗袍工作室), and Hanching Cheongsam Special Store (漢清旗袍名店) are venerable businesses with a world of experience. Note that there is no problem even if you are in Taipei for just a short time, for all these stores offer overseas shipping. When in Taipei for travel, be sure to leave with a custom hand-crafted qipao in your suitcase, which is sure to bring back lovely memories every time you take it out thereafter.
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