The cool of autumn is prime time for travelling, and a special bit of travel news that you'll want to know about is that the No. 9 Minibus (小9巴士), which travels between Beitou (北投) and Zhuzihu, has been added to the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle (台灣好行) network. The Taiwan Tourist Shuttle system, administered by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau, features numerous bus routes that link popular tourist attractions. The No. 9 Minibus route has now become the system's "Beitou – Zhuzihu Route" (北投竹子湖線), enabling travelers to comfortably explore what is oft called "Taipei's backyard garden". From the hot springs of Beitou to the natural heritage of Zhuzihu, the many scenic spots that this route connects are now even more accessible, due to the convenient on-board audio guide service provided.
Route:
MRT Xinbeitou Station (by metro) → Beitou Park (Beitou Hot Spring Museum, Plum Garden, Thermal Valley, Su Jia Shimian Maifu) → Mituo Temple (Liuhuang (Sulfur) Valley) → Yangming Park Visitor Center (Yangming Park & Flower Clock) → Yangmingshan Parking Garage (Grass Mountain Chateau) → Yangmingshuwu → Zhuzihu → Beitou Park (Penglai Restaurant)
A Hot-Springs Enclave with a Rich Japanese Ambience — Beitou
In the morning, take the Taipei Metro to Xinbeitou Station (新北投站). Directly ahead of the station is Beitou Park (北投公園), 100 years old this year. A natural hot spring stream winds through the park, babbling quietly and throwing up curling mists, helping to paint this hot-spring sanctuary's unique canvas. Head up gently sloping Zhongshan Road (中山路), and you'll quickly come to Beitou Hot Spring Museum (北投溫泉博物館) on the right. Housed in what was once a public bath (opened in the early 20th century) the original large bathing pools remain intact. The arched columns and stained glass further evoke the refined bathing culture of the Japanese colonial period.
Next to the museum is another site of historical significance, Plum Garden (梅庭), formerly the summer home of Yu Youren (于右任), famed calligrapher and one-time director of the Control Yuan (監察院). The characters for "Plum Garden," written in Yu's own hand, are inscribed at the entrance. After your visit, continue along Zhongshan Road and you'll soon come to one of Beitou's most venerable tourist sites: Thermal Valley (地熱谷). The large, bubbling pool and streams here constantly emit thick sulfurous steam, giving rise to popular names such as Hell Valley (地獄谷) and Ghost Valley (鬼谷). After exploring these sites, it's time for a lunch break, and a fine local choice is Su Jia Shimian Maifu (粟家食麵埋伏), near Beitou Park. The restaurant placed in the top 10 in the office-worker category in the 2011 Taipei International Beef Noodle Festival. Especially recommended are the curry beef noodles, a house signature specialty.
Street-corner Encounters with Artistic Beauty
After exploring Beitou, catch the Beitou – Zhuzihu Route bus at the Beitou Park stop to explore the many splendid sights up on Yangmingshan. Get off at Mitou Temple (彌陀寺), walk ahead a bit, and you'll come to Liuhuang (Sulfur) Valley (硫磺谷), which endlessly spits and spews sulfurous vapors. This was a major site for sulfur mining during the Japanese era (1895-1945), and is the source of the white-sulfur waters that supply the prosperous Xinbeitou hot-spring hotel area down below. After enjoying the rugged grandeur of this area, hop on the next bus and ride to the Yangming Park Visitor Center. Take the path to the left of the center into Yangming Park, laid out in the style of a classical Chinese-style garden. Enjoy the blossoms of the many Taiwan cherry, Japanese cherry, plum, and azalea trees, and the famous giant Flower Clock (花鐘), made of a profusion of bright flowers, with soft, comforting grass beneath your feet.
Apart from offering an opportunity to enjoy nature's beauty, Yangmingshan also offers trips back into an earlier era at a number of heritage buildings of historical significance. Get off the bus at Yangmingshan Parking Garage (陽明山立體停車場), and beside it is Grass Mountain Chateau (草山行館). This mansion was once a summer getaway villa for former President Chiang Kai-shek(蔣中正), who also entertained VIP guests here. Renovated after a serious fire, the chateau now has an exhibit hall and restaurant, and has been reborn as an art salon. Next, take the bus to the Yangmingshuwu (陽明書屋) stop. The interior of Yangmingshuwu, just a few steps away to the left, still looks as it did when Chiang Kai-shek and Madame Chiang resided here.
White Curling Mist, and Flowers for All Seasons — Zhuzihu
Ride the bus deeper and higher into Yangmingshan, to the last stop: Zhuzihu. Long, long ago, this was the site of a natural barrier lake formed as a result of volcanic activity. The water eventually drained away, leaving a fertile valley. In earlier times arrow bamboo and moso bamboo grew here, giving rise to the "Zhuzihu" (竹子湖Bamboo Lake) name.
Thick fog often collects in this mountain depression, and often while the sun is shining brightly down below in the city, this area is shrouded in ethereal mists. Adding lovely color to the mist-framed setting is the parade of legions of flowers that bloom from spring through autumn. Follow the Bamboo Lake Circular Trail (湖底環狀步道) into an oasis of flower fields, which each year from February through May are alive with swaying calla lilies. Colorful hydrangeas take the stage from mid-May through June, sunflowers are the stars of the show from late July through mid-August, while oceans of flowering silver grass own the autumn, swaying in the breeze.
After this grand day-long tour, head back down on the bus to the Beitou Park stop, and replenish your energy with dinner at Penglai Restaurant (蓬萊餐廳), not far from the stop on the left. This restaurant specializes in authentic traditional Beitou's tavern dishes. The crispy fried pork and "Buddha jumps over the wall"(佛跳牆) are most popular with aficionados, presenting you with a splendid taste-bud journey that is the perfect way to cap the most pleasant of outings.
Notes on the Beitou – Zhuzihu Route Buses
The Taipei City Government's Department of Information and Tourism (臺北市政府觀光傳播局) has arranged three separate types of bus for this route, with "Hot Springs", "Nature, and "Touring" themes. Each has different ring-pulls, headrest covers, and music. In addition, eco-writer Liu Kexiang (劉克襄), a long-time nature observer who is keen on using public transport to get to and from walks and hikes, has been invited to record an audio-guide explaining scenic sights along the route, providing interesting culture and nature tales for passengers to listen to during the ride. Buses run every 20~50 minutes on the route; please check the schedule when planning an outing.
Tel: (02)2893-7723
Bus Schedule Website:
www.taiwantrip.com.tw/Schedule/
1. Thermal Valley, a place of thick sulfurous steam, has long been a Beitou tourist draw.
2. A Taiwan Tourist Shuttle "Beitou – Zhuzihu Route" bus.
3. Original Japanese-era elements preserved at the Beitou Hot Spring Museum include archways and mosaic stained glass.
4. Exhibit display area inside the Plum Garden heritage residence.
5. Verdant Beitou Park, through which a bubbling, boiling hot-spring stream snakes.
6. Curry beef noodles, a signature dish at Su Jia Shimian Maifu.
7. Yangmingshan's iconic Flower Clock, a tapestry of colorful flowers.
8. Liuhuang (Sulfur) Valley, a major Japanese-era site for sulfur collection.
9. Enjoy the heritage architecture and afternoon tea in the Grass Mountain Chateau restaurant.
10. Things have been left as they were in Generalissimo and Madame Chiang Kai-shek's day at Yangmingshuwu.
11. Walk the Bamboo Lake Circular Trail, deep into an oasis of flower fields.
12. Different Beitou-Zhuzihu Route buses have different covers on ring-pulls.
13. A Penglai Restaurant specialty, crispy fried pork.
Beitou Hot Spring Museum 北投溫泉博物館
Add: 2, Zhongshan Rd. (中山路2號)
Tel: (02)2893-9981
Plum Garden 梅庭
Add: 6, Zhongshan Rd. (中山路6號)
Tel: (02)2897-2647
Su Jia Shimian Maifu 粟家食麵埋伏
Add: 2F-1, 12, Quanyuan Rd. (泉源路12號2F-1)
Tel: (02)2891-7537
Su Grass Mountain Chateau 草山行館
Add: 89, Hudi Rd. (湖底路89號)
Tel: (02)2862-2404
Yangmingshuwu 陽明書屋
Add: 12, Zhongxing Rd., Yangmingshan (陽明山中興路12號)
Tel: (02)2861-1444
Penglai Restaurant 蓬萊餐廳
Add: 238, Zhonghe St. (中和街238號)
Tel: (02)2891-2778
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