2015年3月27日 星期五

New Leader Wants Golden Arches to Turn Into Halos/麥當勞推手工客製餐 你買單嗎?


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2015/03/27 第65期 訂閱/退訂看歷史報份
 
 
紐時周報精選 New Leader Wants Golden Arches to Turn Into Halos/麥當勞推手工客製餐 你買單嗎?
Questions of Taste Over Chocolate Deities/象神巧克力吃下肚 印度教徒有意見
紐時周報精選
 
New Leader Wants Golden Arches to Turn Into Halos/麥當勞推手工客製餐 你買單嗎?
【李京倫譯】

For years, McDonald's has lurched from showcasing new items — Egg White Delight Mc- Muffins! sliced apples! — to mining nostalgia for its Big Macs and fries. Customers still line up at the drive-through window for cheap, quick cups of coffee and hash browns. But the company is also trying to appeal to more finicky eaters .

Can McDonald's be both fast and bespoke? Cheap and high-quality?

多年來,麥當勞搖擺不定,一下子展示百分百蛋白三明治、切片蘋果等新品,一下子利用人們對大麥克漢堡和薯條的懷念。客人仍舊在得來速窗口前排隊,購買便宜、供應快速的一杯杯咖啡和薯餅,不過這家公司同時也在努力吸引更多挑剔的食客。

麥當勞能兼顧快速供餐和訂做、便宜和高品質嗎?

圖擷自McDonald's

Steve Easterbrook , who took over as the chief executive on March 1, thinks so. He has presented a new vision of McDonald's as "a modern, progressive burger and breakfast restaurant" where "customization and made to order" are essential .

His first major act as C.E.O. was to announce that within two years chicken served at the restaurants would be free of antibiotics, or at least those antibiotics also used in humans. It was a big move for McDonald's, which is one of the biggest buyers of chicken .

3月1日接任執行長的伊斯特布魯克認為可以。他提出麥當勞的新願景:既是「摩登又進步的漢堡與早餐餐廳」,同時「客製化和訂做」也必不可少。

他就任執行長後第一個大動作就是宣布,兩年內做到供應的雞肉不含抗生素,至少不含也用於人類的抗生素。這對麥當勞而言是重大決定,麥當勞是雞肉最大買家之一。

A 47-year-old British national, Mr. Easterbrook is credited with turning around the company's 1,200-store business in Britain in part by doing things — reducing salt , adding organic milk — that appealed to a more health-conscious consumer.

But he may find the challenge in the United States daunting. While McDonald's is the world's largest restaurant chain, with more than 36,000 outlets, about 14,000 of those in the United States, same-store sales have fallen over the last five years, and last year the company turned in a miserable performance.

47歲的伊斯特布魯克是英國籍,麥當勞在英國1200家分店業績好轉,他功不可沒,部分原因是他在餐點中減少鹽分、增加有機牛奶,吸引了比較在意健康的消費者。

不過他可能會在美國面對極大挑戰。麥當勞是全球最大連鎖餐廳,3萬6000多家分店約有1萬4000家在美國,近五年單店業績持續下滑,去年麥當勞業績慘澹。

The fast-food market has splintered . Upscale fast-casual restaurants like Smashburger and Chipotle attract customers who will pay $5.99 for the Classic Smash burger ("handcrafted" and "seared and seasoned to order") or $6.65 for a steak burrito ("organic and local produce where practical"). The menu might be full of calories, but it comes with a halo of quality. The McDonald's core customer, on the other hand, is still looking for a $3.99 Big Mac, served fast.

速食市場分裂成很多塊。高級快速休閒餐廳如Smashburger和Chipotle吸引的客人,願意花5.99美元買「手工製作」、「可調整燒烤程度和調味料」的經典Smash堡,或花6.65美元買「有機、本地食材」的牛排捲餅。菜單上的餐點也許熱量很高,卻有高品質的光環。在另一方面,麥當勞的核心客群仍在尋找3.99美元、快速供應的大麥克。

Rivals of McDonald's are winning on taste and image. To catch them, the company might have to sacrifice speed, which has been its main advantage. And even on that score, it's not doing so well.

Ten years ago, customers placing drive-through orders would have their food in an average of 152 seconds . Today, the same order takes 189.5 seconds , according to research from Janney Montgomery Scott. The longer wait times are primarily the result of efforts to make McDonald's more relevant in a premium, fast-casual world.

麥當勞的對手贏在口味和形象。麥當勞要趕上,可能得犧牲素來最大的優勢——速度。而即使在速度這一點上,它也沒有做得很好。

珍妮金融服務公司研究顯示,十年前,在得來速車道點餐的顧客平均花152秒拿到餐點,現在卻要189.5秒。時間拉長的主因是,麥當勞力圖在優質快速休閒餐飲市場變得更有份量。

The latest turnaround by Mc- Donald's is a Create Your Own tablet that allows people to custom- build their sandwiches from a menu of meats, toppings and buns. Barry Klein, the former McDonald's marketing executive who created Ronald Mc- Donald, tried it out. He said the burger he got could compete with those at higher-rated chains , but it was about $1.50 more than a Big Mac . The new burgers can be ordered only inside restaurants, and they take seven or eight minutes to prepare . "When something like two-thirds of the business is drive-through," Mr. Klein said, "this is not the solution."

麥當勞最近一次改弦更張是試辦「創造你自己的口味」活動,讓人們從菜單上挑選肉類、配料和麵包,隨意組合成三明治。決定試辦的是創造「麥當勞叔叔」的麥當勞行銷部前總裁克萊恩。他說,他調配出的漢堡足以跟高價連鎖餐廳的漢堡比拚,但比大麥克貴了大約1.5美元。這種新漢堡只能在餐廳裡點,花7、8分鐘製作。克萊恩說:「當得來速大約占了業務量的三分之二時,這並非制勝之道。」

Mike Donahue, who led communications at McDonald's from 1987 until 2006, said the company had allowed itself to be defined by others. "Instead of telling consumers that they sell more chicken than beef and are the Number 1 seller of apples, for instance, they've allowed the fringe groups and so-called influencers to define McDonald's as the company that's made America fat," he said.

1987到2006年領導麥當勞公關部門的唐納修說,麥當勞允許自己被別人定義,「比方說,不告訴消費者麥當勞賣出的雞肉比牛肉多、麥當勞是全國最會賣蘋果的店,反而任由非主流團體和所謂有影響力的人給麥當勞下定義,把它說成讓美國人發胖的公司」。

The new marketing campaign, "Our Food, Your Questions," is an attempt by McDonald's to take back its story. Consumers can watch short videos that answer questions such as "What's in a Chicken McNugget?" (meat from the chicken breast, tenderloin and ribs ground with a small amount of chicken skin).

Mr. Easterbrook's first big marketing move indicated that he was reaching for the halo — the perception of quality — floating above some of his rival companies.

"It can't be all things to all people," Mr. Donahue said. "It has to decide."

麥當勞新行銷活動「我們的食品,您的疑問」就是麥當勞試著拿回定義權的行動。消費者可以看短片,影片回答各種問題,如「麥克雞塊裡面有什麼?」麥克雞塊由雞胸、腰部嫩肉和肋骨周邊肉與少量雞皮組成。

伊斯特布魯克祭出第一個重大行銷決定顯示,他已向部分同業頂上那「高品質印象」的光環伸出了手。

唐納修說:「魚與熊掌不可得兼,總要取捨。」

 
Questions of Taste Over Chocolate Deities/象神巧克力吃下肚 印度教徒有意見
【莊蕙嘉譯】

As religious questions go, it is a relatively small one. But, inevitably, it must be asked: Is it O.K. to eat a chocolate statuette of your favorite holy figure?

The matter arose at Bond Street Chocolate, a small boutique in Manhattan that traffics in detailed figurines of Jesus, Moses, the Buddha and the elephant- headed Hindu god Ganesh.

在關於宗教的問題中,這是相當小的一個。但無可避免的,這問題必須要問:吃掉你最喜愛的神明造型的巧克力沒關係嗎?

這個問題在曼哈坦的一間小小的巧克力店「邦德街巧克力」出現,這家店販售造型細緻的耶穌、摩西、佛陀和象頭的印度教象神。

Last month, an organization called Universal Society of Hinduism issued a demand: "Upset Hindus urge withdrawal of Lord Ganesh-shaped edible chocolate."

The owner of the store, Lynda Stern, was puzzled. For more than five years, she has been selling the gold-dusted Ganesh and his shelfmates, beside passion fruit bonbons and chocolate-coated wasabi peas, with barely a whiff of controversy.

名為「全球印度教協會」的組織,上個月發出要求:「感到不悅的印度教徒力促撤下象神造型的巧克力食品。」

店主琳達.史登感到不解,她販賣這個撒了金粉的象神及百香果巧克力糖、裹上巧克力的芥末豆等各式產品已經超過五年,幾乎不曾發生爭議。

圖擷自網路

In the news release, the society's president, Rajan Zed, wrote that Ganesh, the remover of obstacles, was "highly revered in Hinduism and was meant to be worshiped in temples or home shrines and not to be eaten casually."

But Ms. Stern, whose nearly eight-centimeter-tall Ganesh sells for $15, has no intention of desisting.

"All spiritual icons are treated equally in my shop," she said, "with honor and respect to the religion."

在新聞稿中,這個協會的會長拉揚.介德寫道,象神是破除障礙之神,「在印度教中非常受尊敬,應該在寺廟或家中神壇受膜拜,而非被隨便地吃掉」。

但是史登並不打算中止販售這款8公分高、每個15美元的象神巧克力。

她說:「所有宗教象徵的商品在我店裡的待遇都是平等的,所有宗教皆受尊崇與敬重。」

But whether the statues offend the devout depends on whom you ask. "We Hindus look at the universe as eternal and god almighty as one," said Uma Mysorekar, president of the Hindu Temple Society of North America in New York . "So we would not say that the lord resides only in that little piece of chocolate. It's more like when they eat it, the lord comes back to us — he is within us."

The store's Divine Collection also includes a 10-centimeter- high Virgin of Guadalupe . The Reverend Santiago Rubio, pastor of the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe in New York, was not pleased to hear this. "We consider statues and images as sacred objects that help connect with the divine or the supernatural," he said. "So to transform them into merchandise, candy to eat, I don't think it's the best way to go. "

不過這些造型是否冒犯信徒,要看你問的是誰。紐約的「北美印度教寺廟協會」會長烏瑪.米索雷卡說:「我們不會說神明只存在於這小小一塊巧克力中,這應該像是,當吃下巧克力時,神明回到我們身邊,祂與我們同在。」

這家巧克力店的「神明系列」也包括一款10公分高的瓜達魯佩聖母,紐約的瓜達魯佩聖母堂主任司鐸桑提亞戈.魯比奧神父,聽聞此事時並不高興。他說:「我們認為塑像和畫像是神聖之物,幫助我們與宗教或神產生連結,所以將它們轉換成商品、可食用的糖果,我不認為這是最好的做法。」

But a spokesman for the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of New York, Joseph Zwilling, recalled a Catholic organization's dinner at which guests were given white chocolate Virgin Marys. "I don't think there's anything inherently sacrilegious about it," Mr. Zwilling said, speaking about Ms. Stern's Jesus treat, which is cast from a dashboard ornament. "It's the intention of the person making it that matters."

Hun Lye, a Tibetan Buddhist lama , said that an ancient Buddhist text, "A Guide to the Bodhisattva Way of Life," "says that those who get upset when the Buddha is being insulted should not call themselves disciples of the Buddha.""It's the Dalai Lama's favorite text," he said. "But probably you wouldn't see the Dalai Lama buying the statue and chomping on it."

但是天主教紐約總教區發言人喬瑟夫.崔林想起,曾有一個天主教組織在晚餐中給賓客白巧克力做的聖母瑪利亞。崔林談到史登以汽車儀表板裝飾品為模子製成的耶穌巧克力時說:「我不認為這件事本質上有任何褻瀆神明之處,製作者的意念比較重要。」

藏傳佛教喇嘛黎幸佑說,佛教古籍「入菩薩行論」中提到,「於佛塔像法,誹詆損毀者,吾亦不應瞋,因佛遠諸害。」他說:「這是達賴喇嘛最喜愛的一段經文,但是你應該不會見到達賴喇嘛買這些巧克力並大口咀嚼。」

 
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