Taipei is a city of rivers. Walk around the Dadaocheng (大稻埕), Yuanshan (圓山), Dazhi (大直) and Neihu areas and you'll enjoy plenty of river views. Travelers who ride a bicycle will know about the city's comprehensive, interlinked system of riverside bikeways, with a total length of 112 kilometers along the Tamsui, Keelung, Xindian, and Jingmei rivers.
The History of Tamsui River
In former times, the Tamsui River played a key role in local communication and goods transportation, and was at the center of the city's rise. In the 18th century soldiers were sent by the Qing Dynasty (清朝) government to garrison Taiwan, and in the Taipei area the Tamsui River system was the primary channel of communication with the outside world. The main trade and transport node in the area was along the Xinzhuang (新莊) shore. Silting became a serious problem after 1767, and commerce began a slow shift downriver to Bangka (艋舺), today called Wanhua (萬華) in Mandarin Chinese. However, it too began to suffer from serious silting, restricting and finally halting rivercraft access. Bangka's slow decline marked Dadaocheng's rise as the Taipei region's main goods and materials entrepot. Many foreign traders and wealthy Chinese merchants moved in to set up operations, and Dadaocheng flourished as a distribution center for regional specialty goods, tea, and fabrics.
During this era, most land along the riverbanks in today's Taipei was farmed. In addition to the major centers of population and commercial activity – the old walled city, Bangka, and Dadaocheng – a number of smaller trading hubs for agricultural and household items took shape, notably the towns of Shilin St. (士林街), Dalongdong St. (大龍峒街), and Xikou St. (錫口街). The end of the 19th century saw the fading away of river transport as a result of silting, and the emergence of railway transport. Their role as water-traffic nodes gone, the river port towns went into decline.
The Four Rivers – Scenery, Boat Tours, Cycle Paths
According to Chen Shihao (陳世浩), the director of the Hydraulic Engineering Office (水利工程處), Public Works Department, Taipei City Government, the main function of the Tamsui and other city rivers is now leisure and recreation. Riverside parks and nature reserves line the riversides, and what is locally called the Blue Highway (藍色公路) has been reopened, with Blue Highway yacht cruises offering residents and visitors the opportunity to enjoy the riverside scenery and natural ecology from the water. The office has established an interlinked system of riverside bikeways totaling 112 kilometers in length, presenting grand views from Jingmei (景美) in the south and Neihu in the east and extending downstream to the wetlands of Guandu (關渡) in the north.
A Sprawling Canvas of Historic Sites and Natural Landscapes
The main boat-traffic points on the Tamsui River Blue Highway were Dadaocheng Wharf (大稻埕碼頭) and Guandu Wharf (關渡碼頭), and there was heavy traffic between the river-mouth port towns of Tamsui and Bali (八里). Dadaocheng was the last place to flourish in the days of river transport, so start your tour on foot here, where many precious cultural and historical relics have been preserved. A good example is the Zhuangxiefa Cultural History Pavilion (莊協發港町文史講亭), an official city heritage site, which stands at the junction of Guide Street (貴德街) and Xining North Road (西寧北路), where the docks used to be before silting altered the shoreline. Built in the late 1920s, this was originally a common family-run grocery store; after renovation it was opened to the public as a cultural-history pavilion. Also on Xining North Road is another building constructed in the 1920s, the former residence of Li Linqiu (李臨秋). Li, a lyricist, wrote the words for many popular Taiwan tunes, including the 1930s hits "Craving for the Spring Breeze" (望春風) and "Four Seasons of Red" (四季紅). There are many commemorative items on display at both locations (advance registration required).
The head of the Cultural Heritage Division (文化資產科) of the city's Department of Cultural Affairs, Lin Changchieh (林長杰), says that the building of port facilities at Dadaocheng made it a "world trade center." The area's Guide Street was also the first in Taipei to feature Western-style buildings. The Zhuangxiefa site brims with the scent of this bygone era, an eyewitness to its heyday and its decline, serving as a viewing platform into history. Every Saturday, Taipei Walking Tour (台北城市導覽) offers a fixed time/location tour in Chinese, English, and Japanese: an invaluable way for foreign travelers to explore Dadaocheng's old streets.
After gorging yourself on the area's historic spots, walk to the river and Dadaocheng Wharf via its water gate. The rich, panoramic landscape here includes a scale mock-up of a Tang Dynasty junk, a wharf arch bridge, and Yanping Riverside Park (延平河濱公園). Board a craft plying the Blue Highway Tamsui-Xinyi Line (淡水信義線) and head to Guandu Nature Park (關渡自然公園), then on to Tamsui to browse Tamsui Old Street (淡水老街), trying its well-known traditional snack treats. Head back to the city center on the Taipei Metro. On this Blue Highway outing you can also choose to disembark at Guandu, rent a bike, and explore the natural delights of the Guandu Nature Park, an important wildlife habitat. The park's ecology has three foci, waterfowl, wetlands, and insects, and trained professionals are available to take guided tours following these themes.
Another fun touring option is to soak up the appealing riverside scenery on a long, leisurely bike ride. You can start off on the Guandu Bikeway. Head out from Guandu Temple (關渡宮), pass by Guandu Nature Park, follow the Guizikeng Stream (貴子坑溪), and head back once you come to the hiking trail entrance. Along the way there are fine views of Mt. Guanyin (觀音山), a large swath of mangrove forest, flocks of waterfowl in flight, and other magnificent natural sights.
The Resplendent Keelung River Nightscape –
Deepening Night, Deepening Beauty
Many nighttime scenic attractions are to be found along the banks of the Keelung River – among them the lights of the Grand Hotel and Miramar Ferris Wheel and the multicolor lighting of the Rainbow Bridge (彩虹橋). This is a favorite area with many who enjoy cycling at night. Bikeways follow both the left and right banks, enabling a leisurely look at all the many different night attractions for cycle enthusiasts, accompanied by a gentle night breeze. A daytime Blue Highway tour offers an entirely different experience; embark at the Dajia Wharf (大佳碼頭) in Dajia Riverside Park (大佳河濱公園) and the boat passes under Dazhi Bridge (大直橋), along the Dazhi waterfront to the Taipei Neihu Technology Park (臺北內湖科技園區) and then back again. The star here is the beauty of the Taipei cityscape – along the way you'll enjoy close-up views of aircraft landing and taking off at Taipei Songshan Airport, the Grand Hotel, and the Miramar Ferris Wheel, as well as the soaring Taipei 101 tower in the distance.
The Xindian and Jingmei Rivers –
Bike Rides Through Landscaped Green Spaces
The Xindian River and Jingmei River riversides are key urban-core green spaces. Join the riverside bikeway at Fuhe Bridge (福和橋), along the right bank of the Xindian River, and the scenery slowly changes from cityscape to expansive green spaces. You'll pass by Treasure Hill Artist Village (寶藏巖國際藝術村), through Guting Riverside Park (古亭河濱公園) and by Taipei City Hakka Cultural Park (臺北市客家文化主題公園). Time and again you'll be inspired to stop off and enjoy wonderful scenes, such as flocks of birds. There are bikeways along both banks of the Jingmei River, interlinked via Daonan Bridge (道南橋) and Yishou Bridge (一壽橋). The contrast of the red flowers and green grass at Jingmei Bridge (景美橋), seen along the route, creates an especially striking scene.
Though the days are long gone where the Tamsui River teemed with merchant craft heading to and from busy marketplaces, sails billowing in the wind, outings on the river by yacht, or along the river by bike, bring the same refreshing spring breezes, matched with the novel vistas and experiences of a new day.
Information
Taipei Riverside Bikeways 臺北河濱自行車道
Website: www.riversidepark.taipei.gov.tw
Tel: (02)2258-7425
Rescue Service Hotline: 0982-780-780
Blue Highway Route Information 藍色公路營運航線資訊
Keelung River 基隆河 :
River Tour Points: Dajia – Meiti
大佳—美堤
Tel: (02)2928-4665
Tamsui River 淡水河 :
River Tour Points: Dadaocheng – Guandu
大稻埕—關渡
Tel: (02)2558-5519
River Tour Points: Guandu – Tamsui Old Street
關渡—淡水老街
Tel: (02)2805-9022
Zhuangxiefa Cultural History Pavilion
莊協發港町文史講亭
Add: 16, Ln. 86, Xining N. Rd.
(西寧北路86巷16號)
Tel: (02)2556-0651
Li Linqiu's Residence 李臨秋故居
Add: 2F, 4, Ln. 86, Xining N. Rd.
(西寧北路86巷4號2樓)
Time: 09:00~17:00
Tel: (02)2586-5985
Taipei Walking Tour 台北城市導覽
Tel: (02)2552-9021
Website: www.taipei-walkingtour.tw
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